Vogue Chaos Issue 4: Female Rage and Female Gaze
Discussing collections by female designers - Dilara Findikoglu, Elena Velez, Simone Rocha, and Dipetsa
Channeling Female Rage and Rebellion at NY and London Fashion Weeks
A growing sentiment of deep anger and dissatisfaction is rising through the world because of blatant misogyny that is casually closing in on us. With Iranian women cutting their hair in protest, Afghan women not allowed to stay in schools, women losing autonomy over their bodies in America, the rise of the man-o-sphere, we are in danger of regressing to the dark ages.
This female rage was shown on the fashion week stages at NY and London, independently by two female designers who are defiant and frankly, PISSED, at the political goings on in their respective countries, but are connected by the same idea of feminine independence. While Velez has models storming down the runway, one of them holding her CFDA award, Dilara has them in slow, romantic, gut-wrenching walks as they undress. Both collections are not afraid to show skin even if it makes people in the room uncomfortable. It is making a loud statement and is completely different from when Tom Ford sent models down the runway in different levels of nakedness.
‘Not A Man’s Territory’, as Dilara named her show, is relevant because we need a safe space to just be us and express our anger, frustration, pain, and even joy. It is hard to express emotion without inviting an unwanted label in the patriarchy, or worse, physical retaliation. The models feeling themselves in silence felt ritualistic, like they were regaining control of themselves, feeling the movements in their hands and legs, touching their faces and bodies, realising themselves, as if reborn.
‘How’s My Driving’ by Elena Velez speaks to the non-cosmopolitan woman from the American midwest who has not had the opportunity to present herself in terms we understand. She makes utilitarian clothing this season which is meant to be worn till its worn out, at prices that are accessible. She is moved by a need to survive as a young brand and does not care about the awards and recognitions that often don’t translate into orders. As someone not based in a major fashion city I can comprehend how it must feel for your location to be holding you back.
Romanticising Womanhood
For those who are further along their journey of rebellion and have accepted their full goddess form, we had Simone Rocha present her heavenly collection. She did not display the body, she made clothes for the body to feel comfortable in. The red ribbon embellishments on the clothes, sometimes used as teardrops under the eyes, symbolised the blood often dabbed on children’s faces as a ritual to ward off bad luck. There was no practical difference between the menswear and womenswear pieces. This created a dreamscape where coexistence is easy and natural. Technically undeniable and aesthetically unique, Simone Rocha is made for the female gaze.
There was also a very different display of femininity at dipetsa - one of the handful of shows that included all colours and sizes of women and celebrated them. I like how she dives deeper into her signature wet look that we saw on Gigi Hadid, however, if she does not come up with a new staple, I fear people will move on in the same way they did from Iris Van Herpen.
Loving what you're doing here! Great job!